"Denise Enck" <encksofeverett.DeleteThis@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:seN4b.4897$tw6.4293@newsread4.news.pas.earthlink.net...
> "Craig Stark" <cstark1.DeleteThis@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:tAJ4b.12653$yi3.434217@twister.tampabay.rr.com...
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> Thanks, seems like a potentially useful site ~
>
> Hmmm...that article on repairing bumped corners with craft glue,
sryringes,
> and C-clamps was interesting. However, while the corners in your example
> photo do look sharp, I don't think I'd want to risk treating the book in
the
> suggested manner. I'd think one would risk damaging the book further by
> poking holes in it (clearly visible in your photo of the repaired book)
and
> by using craft glue rather than archival glue. One would also have to
> exercise great care with the glue so as not to affect the boards' covering
> (by seepage).
>
> best,
> Denise
Thanks for your comments, Denise. The corner repaired in the article was
done with a large-tipped syringe so as to clearly illustrate both the
process and the point of penetration. Using a smaller tip would produce a
nearly invisible repair, if not altogether invisible. Also, it's suggested
in the article that an initial clamping (and unclamping) should be done so
as to squeeze out excess glue, which can be wiped off with a damp rag.
Then, when the final clamping is done, no further glue will appear on the
surface. In a former life I built custom furniture and am quite familiar
with the behavior of white glue (as well as other varieties). As long as
squeeze out is addressed at the outset, no further seepage will occur. In
other words, unlike some glues (e.g., polyurethane) which expand as they
dry, white glue shrinks.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
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