A visit to James Boswell's resting place.

I received the following email and thought that it would be of
interest to the group.

Ed Schaeffer
visit www.jamesboswell.com

Sir

I recently discovered your excellent website in which you kindly
provide details of your trip to visit the above in Auchinleck back in
1994. I am equally a great admirer of 'Bossie' and, spurred by your
tale, decided to right an embarrassing wrong. The fact that I have
lived no more than 15 miles from Auchinleck for the last 12 years (in
Dalry, North Ayrshire) and had never taken the trouble to visit the
town, Boswell's final resting place and the museum. I also hoped for
the opportunity to join the Auchinleck Boswell Society. A chimera
which seems to flit through websites, books on Boswell, but is almost
impossible to contact directly.

Anyway, earlier today, I set off to make the pilgrimage. I decided to
travel by train as this would provide the best opportunity to see the
East Ayrshire landscape that was the home to the Boswell family. The
journey took just over an hour. (Rather ridiculously involving four
changes of train for a ludicrously small distance.) The sun was
shining and the journey, including the various stops, rather
enjoyable. However on arrival at Auchinleck station things began to
go wrong. Walking down to Main Street it became apparent that no map
existed of the town, nor directions signposted from the station to
the museum. Fortuitously I chose to turn right from the station and
walk in that particular direction in the hope of getting my bearings.
This choice was rewarded after a few minutes walk by the sight of the
Boswell Arms public house hoeing into view. A good sign I thought. As
I drew closer to the pub I could see to directional signs attached to
a lamp post and both indicating a right turn. The top one was in
pristine condition and indicated that this was the way to an
industrial estate. (A form of ever increasing urban blight which
effects nearly every town in the UK these days.) The lower sign was
bent, buckled and filthy, and much to my distress was the sign
directing people to the Boswell museum. Indeed it was so bent it was
difficult to be sure that it was pointing in the correct direction.
It struck me that there was a possibility that someone or something (
a large vehicle?) had moved the sign from its original position.
Noneless on reaching the relevant corner I was able to look in the
invited direction and see Auchinleck's original parish church and the
Boswell mausoleum. A fine sight.

However, after that, everything went wrong. It became apparent that
no further directional signposting existed to point visitors to the
museum itself. It was clear on approach that the mausoleum and
attached museum were firmly locked and bolted. What to do? Well I
decided to take stock by strolling around the churchyard. (I
remembered your comments regarding various characters from the
Boswell writings being located there. To be honest you would be hard
pushed to find anyone now. The 'auld kirkyard' is a mass of broken
and toppled grave stones, bits piled on top of one another, and
others lying face down. A disgraceful seen which is affecting more
and more of our old churchyards were the local council refuses to
take responsibility for much more than cutting the grass and ensuring
that unsafe gravestones are not deemed a threat to anyone should they
fall over (!) This usually means that the council 'maintains' the
gravestones by toppling them also! As for the church itself
maintaining the grave yard? Don't get me started on that one.......)
What to do? No signs to say if and when the museum would open. No
activity in and around the church itself. Indeed no solitary person
on this quiet street at all. Except for the odd car and van rushing
by towards the industrial estate. Just then a local chap walked
around the corner with his dog. I hastily made for him to ask his
advice. (Poor man probably thought I was a mugger as I came rushing
round the corner from the Boswell mausoleum.) Nonetheless he was as
helpful as he could be, confirming that this was the museum, but more
worryingly advising me that 'the lady who held the key had died a
couple of years back' and that he didn't know who held it now. Indeed
as far as he could recall it hadn't been open at all since she died.
I thanked him for his help, but left disconsolate.

Now this begs some worrying questions. What is the long term fate of
the museum? Are the relevant artefacts that you described seeing
during your visit still within the building? If so who ensures there
security? Certainly the fabric of the building looked secure, sturdy
and thankfully graffiti free. Can this last? Has Boswell's coffin be
returned to the bosom of his family in the crypt, or does it still
reside behind the glass panels you described? Finally who or what are
the Auchinleck Boswell Society and what role do they continue to play
in all of the above?

To conclude, as you know, Boswell does not enjoy the reputation that
he deserves in his native county and country. (Try finding a rundown
memorial, club or building associated with Robert Burns in Ayrshire!
Impossible! Everything associated with Burns is publicised and
maintained to the hilt!) However should this mean that the few places
of interest associated with him are allowed to decay. Certainly, as I
said earlier, the buildings looked robust enough, but for how long?
The roof of the mausoleum is already covered in grass. The roots of
which are no doubt working into the fabric of the stone. Also there
is the ever encroaching industrial estate and new housing which is
almost certainly going to surround and swamp the church, graveyard
and mausoleum itself. The recent renovation of Auchinleck House
(another building not signposted from the town.) should have been a
cause for some celebration. The fact that it is holiday accommodation
under the auspices of the Landmark Trust is far from ideal (Historic
Scotland hold your head in shame!) but at least the Trust saved and
renovated the house and provides open days to allow the place to be
seen. At the time of the announcement regarding the plans to save
this particular building I wrote to The Herald newspaper expressing a
hope that this would bring some economic benefit to depressed town
and area. Perhaps this has or has not been the case. However could
not the same imagination be put into re-invigorating the museum
itself?

Yours rather sadly

John Byrne